The Secret Handshake Deal that Created “Gratuity”: or, Tipping: It’s Not Just a City in China, and it’s Definitely Not a City in France

Those of us in the restaurant/bar industry are really hurting from his recession. I guess everybody is. And it’s summer, which always means a slowdown, especially in hot ass places like Sacramento. Years past, I’ve always counted on summer tourists to bolster sagging local patronage. But this summer hasn’t brought in many of my fellow Americans. I guess the poor sons-of-bitches in St. Louis, Memphis, Denver, and Minneapolis are feeling this recession too. Thank Christ the Euro’s still stable. We’re lucky to still have the Swedes, French and Germans visiting us out here in California.

Sort of. Depends on who you ask.

In restraunt service areas all over this land, waiters and waitresses can be heard clucking like caged hens about how European tourists don’t tip. It can be especially frustrating because they usually do require extra consideration and effort. For one, Euros are often horrible olfactory offenders. A Belgian family, fresh off the July streets of Sacramento, bears striking resemblance, in terms of sheer body odor, to the locker room of the visiting Detroit Lions after a midday preseason scrimmage at Houston Texans.  So manly! Imagine a wet Golden Retriever, panting, in your lap, and he cuts a canned cat-food fart.  It’s a fog made of shit, instead of vapor. I’ve heard accounts of waiters developing severe migraines and vomiting uncontrollably within minutes of serving these gamey, frog-eating bastards. In the days I waited tables, I used to keep a deodorant stick in my locker expressly for this purpose. The moment I spotted a dazed looking family of Euros in sensible, androgynous shoes and fanny packs, I would do like a coroner and retreat to my locker so that I could stroke three hits of Old Spice directly into my moustache. Only then could I serve their shandys and ice free sodas in the proper spirit of diplomacy. 

But any professional can cope with the stench. Two major obstacles prove especially more difficult to navigate. For one, there’s the language barrier, which, at very least, makes it slightly more difficult for a server to slip into autopilot.  At worst, it’s like trying to mime a game of charades at a party where none of the guests know, or like you. Nobody’s laughing or guessing, or having any fun at all. And after a while, you have to just give up and leave the party. Unless you’re a waiter. You can’t leave your own house.

If for any reason, you ever want to see somebody squirm, head over to a Fuddruckers, sit down at the bar, and watch the servers until you spot the hackiest one. This is the guy or gal who gives the biggest smile and the same endorsed spiel, verbatim, at each new table. A special kind of robotic clown who doesn’t mind telling the same joke over and over, even though it never gets any real laughs. He’s the guy who doesn’t know that microwaved Sysco products, while consistent, aren’t real food. In other words, the perfect server for one of these places. Anyway, watch one of these yo-yos bumble, fumble, and mumble as they deal with tourists. He can’t read their tastes, and they don’t understand his act. He just keeps trying to upsell guacamole and they just keep shrugging and smiling nervously. It’s hilarious. Few things throw corporate restaurant cheese dicks off their game like being met with naked stares and dead silence. The whole routine goes to shit. It’s like C-3PO with his eyes unplugged. Does not compute!

This linguistic barrier, along with the cultural, is a double whammy. Like trying to have a conversation with an elderly deaf lady. Even if she could hear what you were saying, she still wouldn’t know who the hell Lil’ Wayne is. That may be exactly the rub with these European travelers. They don’t get our fake restaurant culture. I’ve heard that in France, people don’t go to a restaurant because it’s been thematically pre-fabricated to resemble their Grandfather’s fishing cabin, or because it’s been loaded up with replicas of costumes and props from 80s cop movies. I heard European custom is to go to restaurants that have good food. Food that’s been prepared by proud craftsmen who care, and served by professionals who know how to take care of people. In a strange and wonderful fantasy land like this, going out to eat isn’t a simulated experience. It’s going out to eat, one of life’s true, simple joys. In this mythical place then, restaurant jobs might not be seen by ruling class douchebags as “entry level” or menial. These jobs are studied professions for the trained and proud working class; the jobs that men and women are paid wages to do. In this Garden of Eden, tips are not necessary because the server is paid a sustainable wage. Ergo, no tips.

So really, this European failure to tip is just ignorance. They weren’t part of the secret handshake deal (between restaurant owners and their patrons) that created tips. It’s the same ignorance of custom that our own lower class suffers from. We’ve just got to figure out how to educate them without making them want to stiff us (Let me know if you figure this one out).

 So buck up, American Server. The dollar will come back. People will start coming out of their homes again and into your establishment. In the meantime, have a mercy for our dimwitted friends from across the Atlantic. Their money is keeping the house afloat.

8 Comments Leave a comment

Kitty13 wrote 133 days ago...

Yes, in some countries the gratuity is already included in the bill, so the patrons get accustomed to it, and in other countries(such as a lot of the time in France and Spain), servers are paid a much higher wage (compared to their cost of living) than they are here, and customers are not expected to tip, in fact some consider it rude, implying that a server needs extra money from the customer to want to do their job better.  In a lot of other countries meals are expected to last a lot longer, for the express purpose of the patrons sitting, relaxing, enjoying their meal, and engaging in conversation, a server who constantly comes up to check on them, interrupting their conversation, must seem a bit strange.  

 

S.T.Vue wrote 141 days ago...

I'm with Richard on this, we've got to make some efforts at trying to get tourists accustom to America's "tipping ritual". Rather it's putting it in travel books or having “20/20” do a documentary about tipping around the world, steps should definitely be taken to make tipping aware in America.

kellonmelon wrote 142 days ago...

I could be completely mis-informed or just ignorant, but I think in some European countries the gratuity is already included in the check when you get it so it's just part of the bill, so if I'm right that may be the reason for the lack of additional tipping here.  In anycase as much as it sucks at least they're ignorant rather than some d-bag who just fails to tip.

Richard Muncaster wrote 142 days ago...

I think more travel books need to mention that "tipping" is part of the American eating & drinking culture.  I know from experience that it is NOT customary overseas to tip like we do in America.  I always feel strange going to a pub in England and NOT tipping $1 (or the equivalent) per drink.  But, I've actually had bartenders look at me with a very confused expression when I leave that tip.  A few have actually given it back to me.

It would help out the U.S. service industry if travel journals made it clear what is customary in dining/drinking establishments.

I mean, there are many European travel books that DO state what, if any, is an appropriate tip.  Let's hope the trend catches on in reverse.

Sean Constantine wrote 142 days ago...

Jesus effing Christ [a masturbatory reference?]

....my intestines are aching....

thank you for that.

snacks wrote 144 days ago...

sensible androgynous shoes...c-3po with unplugged eyes...old spice--brilliant! 

HKsNosferatu wrote 144 days ago...

Never were words so true!!

Ever since we last worked together, I've been taking up serving to make some money.  Working in a business-traveller hotel, I've had no complaints (or stiffs) from foreign travelers.  Actually they've been tipping better as they get more USD per foreign currency.  What Milholm says, I agree with; the robotic soul-less server at a bastardized food establishment will be the ones who complain about foreign patrons.  I believe its when you take on the role of actually being the classical server that provides accomodating service and personality (when its due) that pays off.

NURGE wrote 145 days ago...

Jesus fucking Christ! You make-a my gut hurt.

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